raw knox : tomo

I share a block with downtown Nama, so when we want sushi, Nama is the fallback choice 99-percent of the time. In fact, when the fridge is empty and we're just too lazy to go to the grocery store or to another restaurant, Nama is the fallback choice 99-percent of the time. (The tasty new Cuban restaurant on the 100 block may give Nama a run for their money on that one, though). We usually get takeout, because Nama is small, and it's still wildly popular all these years and a second location later; but when family or friends are in town, we love to take them to Nama for fun dining experience.

Nama's great, but I eat it so frequently that it's become sort of like grilled cheese or a can of soup. I eat it because it's there, and because it's convenient; and hence it's lost some of its excitement.

When we really want a fun experience and good sushi in Knoxville, and when there's gas in the car and we're not too lazy to get in that car and drive it westbound, Tomo's the place we go.

Tomo has two locations: West Knoxville at 7315 Kingston Pike (865.584.0047) and North Knoxville at 4877 N. Broadway (865.689.1999). I have never been to the North location, but I hear it is near Fountain City. The West location shares a strip with Cat's Music.

What I love about Tomo is that it's kind of a hole in the wall. Now if you know me, you know that I mean this in the best, kindest and most complimentary way. I am a dive bar kind of girl. I don't like frills or overly designed plates of food. I don't care about seeing or being seen. I just want a quite, low key, delicious dining experience. Tomo is small and dark; there's a sushi bar that seats four and a few tables in the window that allow you to eat kneeling. Other than that, there are maybe 6 or 7 tables. Tomo may seem like a hole in the wall to me, but it's clean. Anthony Bourdain has made two suggestions that I live by: Never eat in a restaurant that doesn't have a clean bathroom (if they are too lazy to do a simple task like clean a bathroom, you can only imagine what the kitchen looks like), and never eat restaurant fish on Mondays or Tuesdays. Words to live by. Tomo's bathrooms are clean. They're bare, too, but at least they're clean.

Another thing I love about Tomo is that it's not just a sushi bar. It's a full service Japanese restaurant. I can't believe it, but there are actually people in the world who don't eat sushi, and Tomo provides a great compromise. I can go and eat sushi to my heart's content, and I can take someone like my mom with me when she's visiting this neck of the woods. She won't touch sushi beyond the basic California roll, but she'd love Tomo's Teriyaki Shrimp or a Udon noodle bowl. The menu includes sections for soups, appetizers, salads, noodles or noodle soups, rice bowls, entrees (usually some type of stir fry dish), sushi, and an extensive list of Tempura Lovers items. Do you love Tempura? Hell, get yourself some Tempura battered Mackerel, Acorn Squash, Tofu, Carrot, Diakon Radish, Heart of Palm, Okra, or one of the other dozen or so choices. I can't speak for the Tempura because I don't really eat it, but I know a lot of people really love what Tomo's got to offer.

When I go, I usually stick to the sushi. But I have a friend who swears by the Kara-age appetizer, which is Japanese-style fried chicken. I've had one or two of Tomo's noodle bowls, and both were great. I always get their Miso soup. I think it's the best in town. They also have a Shiitake soup for the same price as Miso. It's delicious. I'm not a fan of Tomo's seaweed salad (Nama has the best seaweed salad in town), but that's about the only thing on the menu that I wouldn't order again.

Alright. You have to get the Orange Crush. It is one of my three favorite rolls among all the sushi spots in this town. It is absolutely, mouth wateringly, incredible. The menu description includes two words that I avoid like the plague, but I make an exception for this roll. I don't get out to Tomo that often, so it's a treat for me; and when I go, those two words are worth it. It's fresh Salmon Nigiri (Nigiri is fish on rice), topped with...gasp...deep fried shrimp mixed in a DE-licious Unagi sauce (it's so addictive that I think they put some crack in there too), topped with freshly crushed garlic and scallions. What is it that Ferris Bueller says? It is so choice.

Another roll that is very popular is named for a friend of mine. Try the Night with Sydney: shrimp tempura and cucumber topped with spicy tuna, avocado, salmon, tuna and shiromi.

Tomo's probably one of the most truly traditional Japanese sushi spots in town. (I love it for this reason). They've got an extensive sashimi and nigiri menu, which is why I go. But they've got a lot of fun and inventive special maki rolls, so if Makerel's not you're bag, you've got plenty of flavorful options.

For dessert, they've got lots of ice creams, including green tea, tempura and red bean. I've never had the red bean ice cream, but maybe I'll try it next time and let you know.

We prefer to sit at the sushi bar because the chefs are always friendly and funny. They always invite us to come back for midnight sushi. They like what they do, and you can tell. That's important to me. And when we can't decide on what we want from the extensive menu, we ask them to make something up for us. And we're never disappointed.

Tomo has a great, diverse Sake menu, and they've also got a Sake sampler for those who'd like to, you know, sample. Otherwise, they've got a pretty good beer list.

Tomo is also open for lunch and offers sushi combo options or bento boxes, which are all moderately priced. They offer daily specials. I don't have a list off the top of my head, but I think they've got all-you-can-eat sushi one day and some good Sake or happy hour specials throughout the week. And, of course, it's very popular for its midnight sushi, which you just might hear a little about later this week...